Lebanon Road Trip: Comprehensive Route Plan & Driving Strategies

There are no domestic flights or trains, and the public transport is too complex for tourists, so driving is an efficient means of transport in Lebanon. The country is not big in territory but dense with attractions, so self-drive is an ideal way to travel.

Rent a car from the Beirut Airport and you'll be on a free road trip. The capital Beirut is less than 2 hours' drive from anywhere in the country, so you can definitely stay in Beirut during your whole trip as the capital is safer and more convenient. Running north-south through Beirut is a coastal road bordering the Mediterranean, which provides access to port cities such as Tyre, Sidon and Byblos. Driving east from Beirut, you’ll head into the mountains, mainly to Baalbek for the stunning ruins of the ancient Roman temples.

In Lebanon you should drive on the right. Although the overall road condition is not bad, it is not recommended for novice drivers to try, not only because of the mountain roads in the east, but also because of the crazily fast local drivers. Speeding, random lane changes, sudden overtaking, and ignoring traffic lights are all commonplaces. Don't let these freak you out. Stay calm and drive safely. Please keep this comprehensive guide for route plans and some driving advice.

How to Rent a Car in Lebanon

Make a car rental order online a month before you leave for Lebanon. Have the driver’s passport, driving license or International Driving Permit, and a Mastercard or Visa international credit card in the name of the driver. The rest of the process is as simple as booking a flight or hotel. You can just fill out the order step by step following the website's instructions. Once submitted, keep the pick-up slip and get your car at the Beirut Airport of Lebanon.

Europcar, Green Motion, Alamo and SIXT are all popular car rental companies. The rental fare is relatively cheap. An average 5-seat car costs about USD 40 to 60 per day. For more detailed steps, please check:
Travel by Car in Lebanon: How to Rent, Pick up, and Return a Car

How to Drive: Traffic Regulations and Driving Tips

1. In Lebanon, all traffic keeps to the right. Follow the direction of traffic flow counterclockwise when you encounter a roundabout.
2. The speed limit in cities is 50 km (31 mi) per hour, while on country roads it is 100 km (62 mi) per hour.
3. All people in the car, including the driver and the passengers, must wear seat belts. Violators will be fined.
4. The local drivers often drive very fast, disobey traffic rules and ignore traffic lights. You’d better drive carefully and give way.
5. In case of an emergency, dial the number 112.

► Google Maps – Highly Recommended

This is the first choice of navigation for self-driving travelers in Lebanon. Make sure your phone’s SIM card is internet-enabled in Lebanon, or buy a local SIM card to connect your phone to the internet so you can use the app of Google Maps. However, in some mountainous areas or remote towns, the phone’s signal may be poor. It is recommended that you download the offline map in advance when you are in downtown Beirut so that you can use it at any time. Or, you can rent a GPS satellite navigation device from a car rental company, which is more reliable.

Road Conditions and Traffic Jams

There are no toll roads in Lebanon. Most roads are narrow two-lane roads and it is advisable to keep a safe distance from the car in front of you and avoid dangerous overtaking. The traffic situation in Beirut is poor, and there are always terrible traffic jams. The roads are not wide, and people completely ignore the traffic rules and park their cars everywhere. This, coupled with the fact that the local drivers often ignore the traffic lights, also contributes to the congestion.

The urban road condition is basically good, while in some mountainous areas, such as the Shouf Mountains or Bekaa Valley, the road condition is not good, uneven and with many curves. Inexperienced drivers are not advised to drive on the mountain roads.

Special Prompt: Wild Driving Style of Local Drivers

The road condition in Lebanon is not difficult, but novice drivers are advised not to attempt a road trip, mainly due to the crazy driving style of the locals. If you're a good driver and don't like following the rules of the road, Lebanon might be your paradise. You can cross the line or speed as fast as you want, and you generally won't get a ticket. There seems no traffic cameras in the country, and the traffic police are rarely seen. It’s not a big deal even if you drink and drive, which is of course not recommended. For most normal drivers, it is hard to adjust to the pace on the road when driving in Lebanon.

Traffic laws are not enforced here. Almost all local drivers don’t follow the ground line, changing lanes at any time to seize the road. You may wonder if there are any formal driving schools in this country. Are the local drivers self-taught? They drive very, very fast, they don't use their turn signals, and they always overtake and turn suddenly. On top of that, some local drivers ignore traffic lights or stop signs! When you come to an intersection or traffic lights, watch carefully and slow down.

About 10% of the old cars running on the road have lost their bumpers, and more than 80% of the cars with bumpers have serious scratches. You hardly ever see a car without damage. You might be scared to see this, but the local drivers are not. They go about their business, rush on the road, and even check their phones while driving, or wave their hands out the window as if they are free.

All in all, driving in Lebanon requires not only a lot of experience, but also a lot of caution and attention, as cars can come out of unexpected places at any moment. May you be safe and lucky and without accidents!

3 Main Routes for Road Travel in Lebanon: Driving Tips and Precautions

Lebanon is roughly a north-south strip. The capital Beirut lies halfway along its western coastline. There is a main north-south coastal road that runs through Beirut to cities in the north and south. The eastern part of the country is mountainous and historic. The whole country is centered on the capital Beirut, and the driving distance from any place to Beirut is no more than 2 hours. Considering safety and convenience, it is recommended to return to Beirut every night for the whole journey without taking a ring route.

Accordingly, you can refer to the following three self-drive routes:
1. Southern Phoenician Port Cities: Beirut → Sidon → Tyre → Beirut
2. Eastern Mountains: Beirut → Anjar → Baalbek → Cedars of God (Bsharri) → Kadisha Valley → Beirut
3. Northern World Heritage and Mediterranean Port Cities: Beirut → Jeita → Byblos → Batroun → Tripoli → Jounieh → Harissa → Beirut

For attractions in downtown Beirut, such as the National Museum, Martyrs’ Square, Mohammad Al Amin Mosque, Corniche, American University of Beirut, and Pigeon Rocks, you can continue to rent a car for another day, or it is easy to travel on foot or by taxi.

1. Driving Route to South Lebanon: Phoenician Cities by the Sea

► Route: Beirut → Sidon → Tyre → Beirut

The major tourist destinations in the south of the country are Sidon and Tyre, two ancient Phoenician cities on the Mediterranean Sea. Beirut Airport is located in the southern part of the city, so it’s easy to pick up your rental car from the airport and head south, bypassing the city’s congested roads. You'd better have more than half a day.

●  Note: Driving in and out of Beirut, there are lots of checkpoints and soldiers armed with guns, but you can just relax, answer normally and show your identification when asked.

► Beirut → Sidon: 42 km (26 mi), 35 minutes

From Beirut Airport, drive south along the coastal National Route M51 to Sidon. This journey will give you’re the first impression of Lebanon. The sky is usually gray, the air dusty, and there are scraps of paper and plastic bags blown by the wind. The buildings are generally dilapidated but not too badly damaged. There are brand-new luxury cars on the streets, but also very, very old broken cars. The 30 or 50 years old Mercedes-Benzes are everywhere, many of which are probably obsolete from Europe.

Sidon is an ancient Phoenician port. The city is not big, and the Sea Castle is easy to find, just off the Route M51. You can see it when you pass by. The car starts to slow down about a kilometer from the castle, the heart of Sidon. The area is bustling with local people and tourists, fishmongers, restaurants, mosques and tumbledown houses. You'd better find a parking space here and not drive any further.

Sidon’s coastline is dominated by rocky reefs, with only a few small sandy beaches. After getting off the car, you can play in the sea breeze on the west side of the road, or buy fish for dinner on the east side of the road, and visit the old souks. The Sea Castle juts out into the sea and looks somewhat grand. It was a fortification built by the Crusaders in 1227. The structure is largely intact, while its walls bear some signs of war damage. It’s not big, and you can see the whole castle at a glance. You can also buy tickets at the waterfront ticket office, and walk along the stone bridge into the castle.

► Sidon → Tyre: 40 km (25 mi), 40 minutes

Continue driving south along the seaside National Route M51 and you can reach Tyre in 40 minutes. The city is said to be the birthplace of the purple pigment. Tyre's surviving ruins are one of five UNESCO World Heritage sites in Lebanon. The ruins are divided into two parts, not connected, about 2 to 3 kilometers apart. Some of them are near the sea, including the Ruins of Tyre: The Egyptian Port, where there are ancient stone pillars that you can see as soon as you enter Tyre. The other part is in the downtown, adjacent to the Palestinian refugee camp, including the Tyre Hippodrome and Tyre Cemetery.

► Tyre → Beirut: 82 km (51 mi), 1 hour 20 minutes

From Tyre, head north to the same route you came, and you can return to Beirut. Along the way, you'll get a sense of how crazy the Lebanese drive. The Lebanese guys like to stick close to your car and suddenly cut in front of you when they change lanes or overtake. How close? When a Lebanese driver passes you, he seems to assume that you must be driving at an absolutely constant speed and perfectly steady on the steering wheel, and that if you happen to turn the steering wheel a bit left or just step on the gas, that close range would be bound to cause a rollover.

You need to drive very carefully along the way. If you get back to Beirut early, you can go to the Pigeon Rock for dinner and watch the sunset, or go for a walk along the Corniche.

●  You May Like:
One Day Road Trip to South Lebanon: Beirut to Tyre

2. Driving Route to East Lebanon: Mountains and Roman Ruins

► Route: Beirut → Anjar → Baalbek → Cedars of God (Bsharri) → Kadisha Valley → Beirut

Eastern Lebanon is mountainous, featuring World Heritage sites such as the Baalbek Temple and the ancient city of Anjar, natural beauty like the cedar forests, and the secluded monasteries in the mountains.

Start from Beirut in the morning, drive more than 10 km (6 mi) to the east, and you will enter a winding road up the mountain. Lebanon's north-south traffic is more convenient than east-west. A north-south highway runs straight along the coast to connect cities along the Mediterranean, but getting into the eastern hinterland requires a hilly drive that is a bit more difficult. Fortunately, the country’s land is long and narrow, and the width of the east-west direction is only about 70 km (43 mi). The road from Beirut to Anjar and Baalbek is good, hilly but smooth and easy to drive, with less traffic than in the capital.

► Beirut → Anjar: 58 km (36 mi), 1 hour 15 minutes

Anjar is a short drive from Beirut, but almost all of the road is hilly and requires careful driving. Anjar is a Lebanese border town just 15 minutes’ drive from the Syrian border and an hour from Damascus. In ancient times it flourished as an important transportation link between Damascus and Beirut, which is why the Umayyads built their city here.

Built in 714 AD, Anjar became increasingly important as a trading center. Owning the largest surviving site of the Umayyad Dynasty, it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1984. The most complete and wonderful part of the site is the great palace, with two intact walls that outline its original form.

The town is so quiet that you can spend half an hour or one hour visiting it.

► Anjar → Baalbek: 45 km (28 mi), 50 minutes

Heading northeast from Anjar, you will drive through the fertile Bekaa Valley, passing the refugee camps on the way. Baalbek is a major tourist attraction in Lebanon. Together with the ancient city of Anjar, the Baalbek Temple was listed as a World Heritage site in 1984. Unlike the peaceful and quiet Anjar, Baalbek is bustling with people. It is not only an important archaeological tourist site, but also home to the Lebanese Red Cross Organization. It is also known as the Hizbollah’s most active area.

●  Note: Hizbollah is a legitimate local opposition party. As a Shiah Islamic political and military organization, it is controversial and is listed as a terrorist organization by some Western countries and some Arab countries.

As soon as you drive into Baalbek, you can see the ancient Roman ruins. The Baalbek Temple Complex covers a large area, so you have to drive to its main entrance to park, otherwise you have to walk a long distance.

Baalbek means the ‘City of the Sun’ in Greek. Around 2000 BC, the Phoenicians began to build a temple here to worship the sun god. After the Romans captured Baalbek in 64 BC, they built three massive temples dedicated to Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus, using 20,000 slaves to expand the site. The entire construction took nearly two centuries and attracted thousands of pilgrims, making Baalbek a sacred religious site of the Roman Empire. In the whole site, the Temple of Bacchus is the most magnificent and you can carefully observe it.

► Baalbek → Cedars of God in Bsharri: 54 km (33.5 mi), 1 hour 10 minutes

The snow on the mountains of eastern Lebanon will not completely melt around May Day. If you go before May Day, the road from Baalbek to the deep mountains of Bsharri is likely to be closed and you will need to go back the same way. If it is after May Day, there may still be snow but the roads are clear.

Leaving Baalbek, you will gradually move north out of the Bekaa Valley and get into the Lebanon Mountain. There are two World Heritage sites hidden in the mountains – Kadisha Valley & Forest of the Cedars of God.

The cedar is the symbol of Lebanon, and the tree on the Lebanese flag is the cedar. Following the navigation of Google Maps, it is about 54 km (33.5 mi) from Baalbek to the Cedars of God. You will enter into the mountains after just 10 minutes’ drive out of Baalbek. There are garrisons and sentries in the mountains. Don’t be nervous, and just cooperate with the examination.

Later, there is a beautiful stretch of road, a world of mountains and snow. It is amazing to go from a sun-baked city into a world of ice and snow. Getting over the hills, you will see a particularly large cafe down the road. Here you can stop, and the cedar forest is 300 meters away on the left. The forest is full of giant cedars that are more than 2,000 years old. The entry is free, and you can donate to the Nature Conservancy if you wish.

Another 40-minute drive in the mountain leads to the Kadisha Valley, also known as the Qadisha Valley or Holy Valley. There are many monasteries. For hundreds of years, many hermits took refuge and practiced in the ancient caves of this valley.

► Kadisha Valley → Beirut: 98 km (61 mi), 2 hours

The return journey will be long, so you need to plan your time well. Try not to drive at night.

●  Tips:
If you feel too tight for traveling the east route in one day, you can split it into two days:
Day 1: Beirut → Shouf Cedars → Anjar → Baalbek → Beirut
Add the Shouf Mountains to see the cedars on the first day on the way to Anjar. There are a lot of turns on the secondary road in the Shouf Mountains. Fortunately, there are not many cars. Otherwise, it is really scary when meeting the speeding Lebanese cars.
Day 2: Beirut → Kadisha Valley → Cedars of God (Bsharri) → Beirut
Take a deep trip to Bsharri the next day, hiking in the mountains and visiting the monasteries and the Gibran Museum.

3. Driving Route to North Lebanon: World Heritage Site and Mediterranean Port Cities

► Route: Beirut → Jeita → Byblos → Batroun → Tripoli → Jounieh → Harissa → Beirut

The highlights of the northern route are Byblos and Jounieh’s seaside scenery and ancient architectural sites, as well as the Shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon.

► Beirut → Jeita Grotto: 22 km (14 mi), 30 minutes

After breakfast, drive north to the Jeita Grotto. The first half follows the Route M51 along the Mediterranean coast and is in good condition. The last five kilometers are hilly, so drive carefully.

The Jeita Grotto shows a typical karst landform. It is divided into upper and lower levels. There are peculiar stalactite columns in the upper grotto, while an underground river in the lower grotto, where you can take a 10-minute pleasant boat trip. Mobile phones are not allowed in the grotto, but many tourists still bring them. If you bring your phone inside, be careful not to flash when taking photos.

► Jeita → Byblos: 29 km (18 mi), 40 minutes

Take a 10-minute mountain drive back to the main road and continue north along the Route M51 to Byblos, also known as Jubayl. Byblos is one of the oldest ancient cities on the Mediterranean coast. The most famous attraction here is the Byblos Citadel, a World Heritage site. It is not far from the sea. Park your car and walk into the citadel for a visit.

Surrounded by a moat, the citadel was built by the Crusaders in the 12th century, using the local limestone and old Roman building materials. There are two sightseeing routes, short line and long line. The short line is suitable for the local people or visitors with very limited time. After entering the scenic spot, walk directly to the top of the castle to take a view of the mountains and the sea. The long route is highly recommended for common tourists. You can spend 2 hours there, walking around to see the seaside scenery, the ruins, the obelisks recording the great deeds of the kings, the ancient Roman theater, the temples, and the royal cemetery. Finally, if you are interested, you can visit the old souk. Leave Byblos after lunch and head for the next stop.

► Byblos → Batroun: 17 km (10.5 mi), 20 minutes

Continuing north along the coast from Byblos, it takes 20 minutes to reach Batroun, a small port with many yachts.
Places to Visit: Fisherman Port, Batroun Old Souk, Phoenician Wall, Cathedral of Saint Stefano

► Batroun → Tripoli: 29 km (18 mi), 25 minutes

Drive north from Batroun to Tripoli, another ancient city on the Mediterranean Sea. The city appears some run-down.
Places to Visit: Tripoli Citadel, Taynal Mosque, Rachid Karami International Fair

●  Tip: If you're pressed for time, you might consider skipping the visit to Batroun and Tripoli.

► Tripoli → Jounieh: 60 km (37 mi), 50 minutes

Open the map app on your phone, set the destination as Teleferique du Liban, and then drive south from Tripoli. This part of the road is on the way back, still along the coast. It is relatively smooth and easy to drive. It takes more than 50 minutes to reach the destination – Jounieh, a coastal city. The Our Lady of Lebanon in Harissa Village of Jounieh is recommended for a visit. The statue of Our Lady high on a hilltop can be seen from almost everywhere in Jounieh.

The location of Teleferique du Liban on the coast is the starting point of the cable car up the mountain. Parking is very convenient here. After you park your car and buy a cable car ticket, you can go up the mountain. Sometimes there's a queue, but it's highly recommended because it's worth it once you get on the gondola. The nine-minute cable car takes you all the way from the sea to the foot of the Lady’s statue on the mountaintop. From the gondola, you can see the magnificent panoramic views of the entire city of Jounieh and the bay.

●  Note: The cable car doesn’t run on Mondays.

On the hill, you can see the statue of Virgin Mary on top of a small church. Built in 1908, the statue is 12 meters high, gentle and stately.

●  Tip: if you don't want to take the cable car, you can just drive up. The 9 kilometers from Teleferique du Liban to Our Lady of Lebanon takes 12 minutes. This section is mainly uphill mountain road, narrow with sharp turns, and you need to drive carefully.

► Our Lady of Lebanon → Jounieh: 9 km (5.6 mi), 12 minutes

Take the cable car down, or drive down. If you choose to drive, check your brakes and control your speed as you head back down the hill. There may be traffic jams near downtown Jounieh in the afternoon.

Jounieh is the back garden of Beirut, with highly developed tourism, entertainment, and gaming industry. The seaside resorts and clubs abound. If you're not in a hurry, you can spend some time at the Jounieh Beach, take a quiet view of the sea, and try some fun water entertainments or exciting paragliding experience.

► Jounieh → Beirut: 20 km (12 mi), 30 minutes

This is still the coastal road you came from. Be prepared for a traffic jam as you approach downtown Beirut in the afternoon.

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Some Supplementary Notes on Driving

1. Parking

Lebanon has paid or free parking spaces. Generally, you can park on the side of the road as long as it doesn't affect traffic. In the capital Beirut, roadside parking spaces are usually allowed for up to two hours. In the scenic areas, parking space is usually quite limited, so it is best to find a place to park in advance. Don’t leave valuables in the car when parking in case the thieves break through the window. Many parking spaces do not have an administrator and have to be paid through self-service machines or meters. You need to prepare change for payment.

2. Refueling

When refueling, pay attention to check the fuel type mark on the tank cover to avoid wrong fuel. The gasoline in Lebanon is about USD 1.43 a liter, in line with international oil prices. Diesel is about 30 to 40 percent cheaper than gasoline. You’d better have some cash, as some gas stations may not accept credit cards. Most gas stations are open from 8:00 to 20:00.

3. Car Repairing

On the road, you can see many cars with scratches, big or small, and you can imagine how high the accident rate is in this country. That's probably why the whole country is full of car repair shops. Even if you drive carefully, be prepared for minor vehicle problems. You'd better be an experienced driver, able to skillfully change the spare tire, in order to deal with the occurrence of a flat tire on the mountain road. In cities and towns, there are lots of repair shops, and they repair tires very quickly, in just a minute, charging LBP 50,000, which is the price of 1.25 cups of coffee. How cheap, you think! However, it’s cheap for a reason. Instead of sticking a patch on the tire, they put a piece of rubber in the puncture, which is a perfunctory fix, so it’s fine for the moment, but you may get a flat tire again pretty soon.

4. About the Weather

Lebanon has a tropical Mediterranean climate. The coastal plain and the Bekaa Valley enjoy a comfortable year-round climate, with hot and humid summers and warm winters that do not affect driving. In the high mountains in the east, there is snow in winter from November to April. Some roads will be closed when there is heavy snow. After May, the snow gradually melts. Before driving, pay attention to the local weather forecast and make a reasonable route plan and preventive measures according to the weather conditions.


●  If you're not good at driving, or you're worried about driving on the complex local roads in Lebanon, you can book a guided tour to save all the trouble of arranging the route and schedule.
7 Days Beirut - Deir Al-Qamar - Sidon - Tyre - Beirut - Baalbek - Anjar - Harissa - Byblos – Beirut